Tags: Heavy Spa Cover, Smelly Hot Tub Cover
Dear Mr. Pool and Spa Master: My hot tub cover weighs a ton. It used to be easy to lift with one arm. Now my wife can’t lift it, and I have to give it a good heave-ho. What’s wrong? Richard in Boulder City
Richard, Your hot tub cover is toast–a big slice of closed-cell foam that is water saturated.
1) It can’t be repaired–it’s not like a sponge and squeeze-dried
2) It’s probably harboring nasty bacteria. I’d bet the cover reeks
3) Say hello to mold. (Got more yucky smell?)
4) It no longer properly insulates your spa’s water temp–and now you’re paying more to heat the water
5) A sprained back is in someone’s future as they try to lift the beast
1) Live with the 5 negatives listed above or
2) Replace it with a new cover.
Yes, that’s an expensive proposal, but your only choice. I recommend that you order it through your local spa dealer mainly because they should be purchasing covers from a reputable manufacturer that provides a year’s warranty, and they will also assure that you get the right size cover for your spa. It will likely be custom-made for you. Why? There are thousands of spa sizes, shapes and styles. It’s too risky for a spa dealer to keep every size in stock.
To assure you get the right cover, do the following:
1) Measure the length and width of the cover and the corner radius
2) Measure the skirt length (the part that hangs down)
3) If you know your hot tub’s manufacturer, bring that.
4) AND some hot tubs have a serial number. That slam-dunks the right cover.
There are alternatives to the standard cover. They cost more, and don’t have the features that, say the Sunstar manufacturer provides:
- UL Classified.
- Full 3-Year Warranty.
- Marine Grade Vinyl. Treated with mildew and UV inhibitors for year-round beauty.
- Vapor Lock Seal with Antaeus 2000™. State-of-the-art equipment is used to heat seal cores with Antaeus 2000, a scientifically formulated plastic developed exclusively for Sunstar to inhibit moisture absorption.
- Twenty-Eight Points of Internal Reinforcement. Every stress point is reinforced, including the hinge, handles, straps, corners and skirts.
- Tough ’N Sturdy Hinge. Four layers of vinyl add strength to this high stress area.
- Super-Strength Padded Handles. Five layers of added strength were it’s most needed.
- Premiere Skirt. An additional seal to keep heat in and dirt out.
- Tie Down Straps. Triple-reinforced straps secure the cover to the spa or hot tub with locking fasteners.
- Secure-Loc Fasteners. Lock with a key for extra safety.
- Plastic Drain Grommet. Aids the release of moisture trapped under the vinyl. Will not corrode or scratch spa.
- Double-Ply Poly-Laminate. Industrial grade vinyl with durable polyester fabric reinforcement. Mildew resistant.
- Tapered Foam Core. Standard covers come with 3 1/2” – 2 1/2” taper to keep heat in and allow rain to run off.
- Steel Reinforcement. Non-corrosive, strengthens center of Spa Top™
- Commercial Grade Nylon Zipper and Protection Flap. Heavy-duty nylon zipper is corrosion resistant. Protective flap for easy replacement of core.
- Hidden Zipper Pull Protection. Protects zipper pull. Adds quality finished appearance.
- GHSG™ Super Heat Seal Gasket. A revolutionary insulating hinge seal that saves heat and prevents moisture loss. Critical to long-term energy savings. Pays back through energy savings typically in less than 12 months, according to independent testing. Also protects bottom from abrasion.
Tags: Chlorine-Alternatives for Spas, Heavy Spa Cover, Ozone, Smelly Hot Tub Cover
Roger from Los Angeles asks, “I read your piece about chlorine-free pools. What about my hot tub? Can I have a chlorine-free hot tub and not get the heebie-jeebies?”
Answer: Roger, if you don’t breathe LA’s air (just kidding), and if you don’t use tea tree oil, crystals, prayer or no disinfectant at all, yes you can use chlorine-free alternatives.
That said, my first question is, are you ready to perform more maintenance on your hot tub’s water than you do using either chlorine or bromine (bromine is chlorine’s kissing cousin)? If you are not interested in micro-managing your spa’s chemistry, then stick with the forty-year-old technology.
Some of your chlorine/bromine-free options are: Ozone, UV, biguinide, or minerals. Regardless of your alternative choice, you absolutely must maintain a perfect chemistry balance, a clean filter, and drain the spa when necessary. Check your local pool and spa store, see what they stock, then email me with your choices and I’ll go into more detail.
Sally in Portland says, “My hot tub cover stinks. What can I do about it?”
Answer: Sally, is mold growing on the north side of your spa as well? I mean, you are in Oregon and it can get a tad moldy there. Fortunately, that has nothing to do with a smelly hot tub cover. Give your cover the following test:
1) Is it heavy when you lift it? If so, your cover is waterlogged and you need to replace it. Once it is waterlogged it no longer can offer the same insulation it did when it was new.
2) Is your cover slimy on the underside? This is a simple fix. Wipe it down with a ¼ cup of bleach mixed with 2 gallons of water. Be sure to remove the cover from your spa while cleaning the slimy beast.
3) Still got gag? It could be that the foam core’s plastic envelope and the covering inside the cover have mildew or mold. You can probably fix this by, folding the cover in half, unzip the cover at the fold, remove the foam core in its envelope, turn the cover inside out, and spray both the envelope and the inside-out cover with the same bleach mix as above. Let it sit for 20 minutes, and then thoroughly rinse the cover off. Let it dry, reassemble, and gag-maker should be bleached away.
4) If these ideas fail, I can get some clothespins for your nose—real cheap too.
….Okay kids, go ahead shoot me those questions…and yes, Bill, I will answer your question about the safety of luv in da tub!